Ersatz coffee

Many thanks to Eliseu Bettencourt for the following ruminations on making coffee substitutes from seemingly inappropriate plants.

A paper published in volume 54 of GRACE about the utilization of lupin seeds for the preparation of a beverage, brought back some dormant thoughts. ((Andrea Heistinger & Klaus Pistrick. ‘Altreier Kaffee’: Lupinus pilosus L. cultivated as coffee substitute in Northern Italy (Alto Adige/Südtirol). Genetic Resources and Crop Evolution 54:1623-1630. DOI: 10.1007/s10722-007-9265-y.))

The paper describes the utilization of Lupinus pilosus L. as a coffee substitute, in a remote village in the North of Italy sitting at 1200 m above sea level. There are also reports of the cultivation of L. consentinii Guss. in the same area. Interesting to note is the origin of the two species. While L. pilosus has its origin in Southern Europe and the Middle East, L. cosentinii occurs in a very restricted area of Southern Portugal, and a bit on the northern coast of Morocco, and in Sicily. The village, Altrei by name, is located on an old mule and cart track, already important in prehistoric time, that connects Venice via the valley of the river Etsch to the Brenner Pass in the north. Apparently the lupins got up there to Altrei via this connection.

Reading this story kind of woke up some old information I had in my head. In 1981, I was on a collecting mission in the province of Galicia, northwestern Spain, for cultivated and wild lupin species. In a remote village we came to talk to an old man whom we asked if he knew the plant and where could we find it. The man had served during WW1 and his eyes were always red and tearful because he had been attacked with mustard gas in the trenches. He knew the lupins quite well and told us that, during the Spanish Civil War, they had tried to roast the seeds of L. angustifolius L. to use as a coffee substitute, but with very poor results due to its bitterness because of the alkaloids.

My mother also told me that they have tried to make flour out of the rhizome of the Hedychium gadnerianum in the Azores during the WW2, but again with very poor results. The plant, originally from the Himalayas, was introduced in the Azores in the middle of the 19th century as an ornamental, becoming a tremendous invasive species and probably the major threat to the endemic flora. However, they were much more successful with roasted barley, which was ground with the help of a bottle and used as a coffee substitute. What people will go through to get a cappuccino in the morning!

Free the grape!

I blogged a few weeks back about the shift in the approach being taken in Europe to protect traditional farmers and producers — and the agrobiodiversity which underpins their livelihoods — in the face of globalization. Rather that erecting subsidies and tariffs to compete on price, the idea is to move upmarket and sell expensive niche products to rich foreigners. Of course, that requires a quality control and labelling system, such as appellations of origin (aka geographical indications).

Well, there’s a downside to such systems. I was idly going through my feed reader today and I ran across an old post on The Fruit Blog (a great blog which unfortunately seems to have gone dormant of late) which pointed to a 2004 article in the International Herald Tribune about how legislation is being used in Europe to basically outlaw some old American grapevine varieties:

The story has been all but forgotten in France today except among a handful of wine experts and a gaggle of bureaucrats who enforce the law. The French government banned wine made from American grape varieties on the grounds that it tasted like raspberries and was thus offensive to the palate. The European Commission adopted the French rule in 1979, making it illegal to grow these varieties anywhere in the European Union.

The percentage of outlawed American grape varieties is relatively small in France. But the offending vines are also sprinkled widely throughout several East and Central European countries that have recently joined or will soon join the European Union.

“You can’t tell the Hungarians, Bulgarians and Romanians to uproot their vines,” says Pierre Galet, perhaps the world’s leading expert on grape varieties. He believes the ban on American varieties is anachronistic.

Shades of what Jeremy has called Europe’s draconian seed laws. The US, in contrast, is not shy about mixing up the American and European grapevine genepools (I have blogged about this before: funny how much I write about wine).

As I say, the IHT article is a few years old, and things may have changed. Something is afoot in the EU with regards to wine legislation, but I wasn’t able to find any more recent analysis of the specific issue of the old American varieties. If you know the latest Brussels scoop on this, let us know.

Herbal remedies

ResearchBlogging.orgAromatic agrobiodiversity was in the news and the peer-reviewed literature today. Rosemary (Rosmarinus officinalis) got a good write-up in ScienceDaily. It turns out that one of chemicals found in its spiky leaves — carnosic acid — can protect the brain from free radicals, but is only activated by the damage caused by these compounds. Otherwise it just sits there doing nothing, which is what you want in a drug. Anyway, there are lots of different varieties of rosemary, and different levels of carnosic acid among them. There are also wild populations in the Mediterranean, as of other herbs as well, and people who make a living harvesting them from the garrigue. That can sometimes be overdone, resulting in damage to the plants, and to the environment, due to increased soil erosion when it rains. So a study from Spain just published in the journal Catena is welcome. It quantified how much harvesting of various aromatic shrubs (lavender, oregano, sage and santolina) you can do before the soil starts to suffer. The recommendation is to leave 50% of the plant biomass in the field.

Two Africas

While browsing the iafrica.com website after reading its features on the potato, I ran across an article about tea-tasting at the Mont Rochelle Hotel in Franschhoek, not far from Cape Town. Which sounds wonderful. But a poignant complement to it was provided by a post I found a little bit later on a blog from the Botswanan village of Nata, which has a line about how tea and bread are served at funerals there. Anyway, Nata Village Blog seems like it’s definitely worth following. Franschhoek and Nata are about 1,600 km apart, as the crow flies.