It has recently emerged that some Australian vine growers have been growing Savagnin Blanc (Traminer), an obscure French variety from the Jura, rather than what they thought they had planted, the considerably sexier Spanish grape Albarino. Apparently, CSIRO was sent mis-labelled cuttings by the National Germplasm Collection of Spain, a mistake that was spotted only after DNA work. It’s all explained, with what I suspect is relish, in an article in the New Zealand Herald. ((The problem seems to have surfaced in the press back in April, but we missed it at the time.)) Just the latest in a long line of trans-Tasman wine spats.
For the Australian winegrowers that have planted the 150ha currently in production in the country, this discovery is a blow as while there’s demand for albarino, the profile of savagnin – which they must now label wines made from these vines – is considerably lower.
As the article points out, not all such errors in identification are bad news.
Over a decade ago in Chile, another case of confusion proved more fruitful when what the Chileans had previously considered merlot actually turned out to be carmenere. This “lost grape of Bordeaux” was virtually extinct until it was found alive and growing very well among the merlot in Chile. It was a situation that inadvertently preserved the variety and led to the New World wine-producing nation to embrace it as a real point of difference and claim it as its flagship variety.
DNA fingerprinting should put a stop to this, of course. But as there are “5000 wine grape varieties with over 20,000 different monikers,” at least according to the article, it may be a while until cases of vine mistaken identity are things of the past.
