Brainfood: Phleum breeding, Rice resources, US corn breeding, Ecuadorian trad foods, Mixed systems, Musaceae history, Berry nutrition, Alaskan cattle

American vs European taste

Julia Belluz has a long article over at Vox on Why fruits and vegetables taste better in Europe. Compared to the US, that is. Here’s the bottom line. Or lines:

  • American farmers put an emphasis on yield and durability, not flavour
  • American shoppers favour access over seasonality
  • The US government regulates for safety — but not quality
  • Finding flavourful food is a matter of priorities

I’m really not sure whether like is being compared with like here, and, if it is, whether one can generalize to this extent anyway about American or European farmers, shoppers and governments. Ms Belluz seems to agree, in a tweet, that she might be winging it a bit:

I know, I know. No systematic reviews on this one. More a matter of perception and lowly anecdote

But read the whole thing for yourself, and join in on the discussion on Twitter.

Nibbles: Cover crops, Viet coconut, Water maps, Mao’s mango, Tudor bread, Belgian gardening, IRRI fingerprints, Stay green barley, Miniature donkey

Drying figs, breaking bread

For commercial farmers and state bodies this kind of project currently lacks economic feasibility. But for community gardens, and people who have private gardens, there are other considerations. People who plant a tree in their private garden, or in a pot on their balcony, don’t need an industrial species. They would likely prefer a smaller fruit with a higher sugar content — a tastier fruit — that doesn’t keep that long in the fridge. Farmers have to make a living, but private individuals can plant these fruits and spread the genetic knowledge. Instead of bringing a check to a wedding, why not give the young couple a local fruit tree?

Nice idea, and a reminder that us ordinary people do have agency, and can make a difference — we don’t need to leave all the work to genebanks. The quote comes from Assaf Bashan, a young agronomist working to preserve local fig trees in the Sataf nature reserve near Jerusalem. It closes a recent piece in Haaretz by Ronit Vered, who I have it on good authority is the premier food writer in Israel. She also had another piece about figs late last year, focusing on the efforts by Adi Segal and Amit Pompan from Kibbutz Tzivon in the Galilee to revive traditional food processing methods.

They acquired their knowledge from their neighbors in Jish and by visiting other Arab towns in Galilee and on the West Bank. “We rarely encountered anyone who was angry or surprised at a couple of Jews who wanted to know the secrets of the traditional local customs. There’s politics in the background, but the focus is on love of the land and the fruits in the basket,” says Amit. “People talk to each other about their land, although I’ve had opportunity to conduct profound discussions about the situation and about the gloomy consequences for their private lives. And still these people generously give us the knowledge handed down to them by previous generations.”

Dare one have hope?

Anyway, too bad both articles are behind a paywall. Let me know if you’d like to know more. And Haaretz, I’m told you should translate זן (zan) as “variety” and מִין (meen) as “species.”

The cider apple rules

I really didn’t give the short piece on the conservation of cider apple varieties in England a second thought when it first came out on the BBC a few days ago.

Hundreds of varieties of rare cider apples are being planted across England after being donated to the National Trust by a collector.

They were grown over 25 years by Henry May, who wanted to save old apple varieties in danger of disappearing.

Sure, I shared it, because it’s always nice to see names like Netherton Late Blower and Slack-ma-Girdle make it to prime time, but that’s about it.

I should have paid more attention, and I’m grateful to Julian Jackson for making some good points on LinkedIn.

Nice to see the National Fruit Collection’s image credited — even if their overarching work to support UK apple genetic resources conservation didn’t get a mention!! (The article should have highlighted the complementary role these new gardens could have to the existing cider collection at the National Fruit Collection 1 rather than suggesting these will be primary resources!!)

Julian looks after the British national germplasm collections for DEFRA, and should know. Here’s hoping these new collections and that at Brogdale get properly integrated.