Category: Indigenous knowledge systems

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Historical food information

Weird how just a couple of days after I blogged about current African foodways, The Lubin Files at FAO points me to a wonderful website about the past eating habits of various East African countries. This was put together by Verena Raschke, who at the time was completing a PhD jointly at University of Vienna (Austria) and Monash University (Australia).

[Her] project is based on a precious and unique collection of literature and data from East Africa from the 1930s to the 1960s.

…

These unpublished data have been stored at the Federal Research Centre for Nutrition and Food Location Karlsruhe (Germany) for the last 30 years, after the Max Planck Nutrition Research Unit in Tanzania (East Africa) was shut down in the late1970s.

The material is called the Oltersdorf Collection, and it is a veritable treasure trove of historical information on crops, food and nutrition.

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Home is where you make it

Professor Roy Ellen, the project director, said: “This project aims to better understand the levels of agrobiodiversity found in home gardens – that is those gardens intimately linked to individual households. For example, we want to know where seed and other plant material comes from, whether it is purchased or obtained informally, who gives and receives it; who receives vegetable produce, and the economic scale of such exchanges. We wish to learn how people learn to become good home gardeners. Whilst biological diversity in itself is important, so are the skills and knowledge that maintain it.”

If you were a reasonably active member of this community and you read the above quotation you might just possibly think, “Ah. Another project to explore the value of agricultural biodiversity and the social networks that support it in some far-flung corner of the developing world. Nepal, maybe, or Burkina Faso.”

But you would be wrong. For the quote comes from an announcement of a project to study home gardens in that most English of settings, Kent. ((I’m giving it more space than Luigi’s original nibble, because I think it is worth it.)) This is exactly the sort of thing I think is sorely needed to forge links among people worldwide. I’ve not been able to find out that much more about the project, although it seems that at least some people at the University of Kent are admirably qualified. And both the Eden Project and the Royal Botanic Gardens, Kew, “will help with the dissemination of the project output”. I hope that means that they will draw the connections to home gardeners everywhere.

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African food blogging

Emeka Okafor over at Timbuktu Chronicles points to a blog that sounds really fascinating: BetumiBlog. Betumi is the African Culinary Network. It “connects anyone who delights in African cuisine, foodways, and food history.” BetumiBlog is run by Fran Osseo-Asare, who is clearly incredibly knowledgeable and enthusiastic about African food and cooking. She has contributed a chapter on Food and Foodways to the Sub-Saharan Africa volume of The Greenwood Encyclopedia of World Popular Culture ((Edited by Dennis Hickey, with Gary Hoppenstand the general editor of the series.)). That includes a very useful table summarizing the many different ways Africans prepare their starchy staples. My personal score is nine.

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Quemada!

Jeremy asked recently whether shifting agriculture ((Also called slash-and-burn and swidden cultivation, and tavy in Malagasy.)) can really support growing populations. I’ve just come across (via the PLEC newsletter) a paper from Madagascar ((E. Styger, H.M. Rakotondramasy, M.J. Pfeffer, E.C.M. Fernandes and D.M. Bates 2007. Influence of slash-and-burn farming practices on fallow succession and land degradation in the rainforest region of Madagascar.  Agriculture, Ecosystems and Environment 119: 257-269.)) which says maybe.

Its objectives

were to analyze jointly with the Betsimisaraka farmers how slash-and-burn practices influence fallow species succession, and how current fallow/cropping regimes influence agricultural productivity and upland degradation dynamics.

The researchers conclude, from discussions with farmers and botanical surveys, that fallow periods have been cut by up to two thirds — to 3-5 years — in the past 30 years. This means that fallow land goes from having plentiful pigeon wood trees on it to bare, dry unproductive grassland in 5-6 rice cropping cycles, after which agriculture is no longer possible. After each cycle, the land needs to be left fallow for increasing lengths of time in order for the soil to recover fertility: “already with the third cycle after deforestation, vegetation starts to degrade quickly in parallel with agricultural productivity decline.”

The findings of this paper indicate that the tavy system with its currently short fallow periods is collapsing.

The main culprit is fire. As fallows become more herbaceous, fire is more difficult to control, and wildfires escape more easily, often “eliminating a productive plot of land for agriculture without getting any benefits of production.”

So what can be done? Try to take fire out of the equation, certainly. “The restoration of soil fertility should build on the biological potential of the system, by optimizing nutrient cycling (e.g. through residue and weed recycling, mulching) and by producing and recycling of high quality organic matter (e.g. through improved fallows and cover crops).” The key to the adoption and success of these practices will be engagement with the young, according to the authors:

The careful development of alternative agricultural practices should especially be done in collaboration with young farmers. If the young obtain a real interest in agricultural intensification, they may not feel the need anymore to leave their native villages and migrate to the forest border to undertake tavy.

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Cheese and olives

A column in the current issue of The Economist uses the example of Gruyère and Emmental cheeses in Switzerland to make the case that, if Europe wants to protect its traditional farmers and producers — and the agrobiodiversity which underpins their livelihoods — in the face of globalization, moving upmarket and selling expensive niche products to rich foreigners may be a better bet than “to deploy subsidies and tariffs to compete artificially on price.” Which is mostly what’s happening now.

[EU farm Commissioner] Mariann Fischer Boel … has urged food producers to focus on quality, heritage and new markets. This summer, she told exporters that import tariffs will move in only one direction in the coming years: “downwards”.

Of course, that will require marketing savvy. It will also require a robust quality-monitoring and labelling systems. Because, as a New Yorker piece on the “slippery business” of trading in fake Italian extra virgin olive oil entertainingly demonstrates this week, there are plenty of wise guys around ready to exploit loopholes and weaknesses.

Later: Cheese, olives, and wine!