Climate change in the heartlands

We here are quite used to the idea that predicted climate change is going to have pretty dramatic effects on which crops grow where, and how well. And mostly we’ve focussed on the places that most need to make use of agricultural biodiversity to anticipate and deal with the trouble: developing countries, where agro-biodiversity may be one of the few resources farmers can control. Now, from the US, two stories that may just move things along there.

UPI.com reports on a study that predicts:

U.S. crop yields could decrease by 30 percent to 46 percent during the next century under slow global warming scenarios and by 63 percent to 82 percent under the most rapid global warming scenarios.

That’s for soybeans, corn (maize) and cotton, not some airy-fairy neglected species that only poor people depend on. ((The article says the paper is online at PNAS; I cannot find it.))

And it isn’t just crops either. An article in Scientific American, by crack reporter Brendan Borrell, reports on studies of how dairy cows treat the heat. One of his sources is Terry Mader, a professor in the animal science department of the University of Nebraska, Lincoln.

“You have heat generated from metabolism and digestion, and then they have to cope with the environmental component,” he explains, “How do they offset increased heat? They eat less.” The decline in feeding results in a decline in output, whether that’s meat, milk or fur. They also tend to have lower rates of conception during warmer months. “That’s just physiology,” Mader says.

Borrell’s article goes on to explore options, such as narrowing the genetic base of the American milk machine still further by selecting bulls whose offspring are less sensitive to increased heat. Alternatively, US dairy farmers could take a different route through the agro-biodiversity thicket and turn to hotter climates, such as Brazil, where there are heat-tolerant breeds that could share their goodness with US cows.

The problem is that a Holstein in the U.S. can produce up to 8,000 liters of milk annually, compared with lowland Brazilian breeds that are tick-resistant and heat-tolerant but are only producing just over a thousand liters of milk per annum.

Forgive me, but why is that a problem? Industrial dairy farmers around the world are protesting like mad because a combination of high supply and low quantity demanded has caused prices to plummet. They can’t give milk away, nor can they get a decent price for dairy carcasses. I’d have thought that the last thing they’d want now would be even more “productive” cattle.

Who will pay for the research needed to make cows less sensitive to heat? Who will benefit?

And a final note, because I can: who is in charge at the once-great Scientific American? The story’s headline is: Got Goat’s Milk? The Quest to Save Dairy from Climate Change. Where do goats come into the story? In the final paragraph:

Mader says some researchers in Brazil are so concerned about climate change, they’ve suggested the country set its sights on goat milk. “That’s a far-fetched concept!” he chuckles. “The industries will change, but we have animals in our cattle population that we can still select from.”

Ah, those funny foreigners. Always good for an amusing, if inaccurate, headline.

“I find that no Plants were as yet collected for His Majestys Garden at Kew”

Smithsonian Magazine has a long, wonderful piece this month about the breadfruit — and Captain Bligh — in Jamaica. It’s by Caroline Alexander, who wrote a book on the famous mutiny, The Bounty. People forget that after the Bounty debacle in 1789, Bligh eventually, doggedly went back to the Pacific and completed his original mission of taking breadfruit to the Caribbean. In 1793, the Providence finally delivered its Tahitian cargo to Jamaica. Its descendants are still there. There’s a companion piece on cooking with breadfruit which includes Diana Ragone’s (of the Breadfruit Institute) recipe for her tasty breadfruit nachos. You can become a fan of the Breadfruit Institute on Facebook, which is how I got to the Smithsonian piece.

Agrobiodiversity timelines roundup

While looking for something else, I came across an interesting food timeline. Perhaps a bit selective, but definitely worth exploring. Then by coincidence I stumbled on another timeline, this time of gardening around the world. Again, not a bad way to waste some time, although way too many links seem to be broken. Anyway, I naturally tried to go for the trifecta, but I could not find an even half-decent timeline of agricultural history. Maybe you can?

Selling touselle

In 1482, in the month of December, King Louis XI was taken ill at Tours, and had Touzelle [wheat] brought from the diocese of Nismes, so that bread could be made for him. The prince, extremely weak in mind and body, and struck with the fear of death beyond all expression, believed that of all the corners of his kingdom, the diocese of Nismes produced the wheat most likely to bring him to health.

That’s Léon Ménard in his Histoire de Nîmes of 1755. The passage is quoted in a short post in what alas seems now to be a dormant blog about artisanal breadmaking. I got there because I was intrigued by this statement in a box in a GRAIN article by Hélène Zaharia (of Réseau Semences Paysannes) called Bread of life. ((This is a companion piece to breadmaker Andrew Whitley’s The bread we eat, published in 2007.))

Henri is an organic farmer in the south of France. In 1997 he was carrying out research into farming practice in the Gare ((Is this a misprint? I think it should read “Gard.”)) region when he discovered Touselle wheat. It is an early wheat, without whiskers, with a soft grain, very suitable for bread-making. It was once cultivated quite widely in Languedoc and Provence and was appreciated for its good yields, even when it was grown on poor soil in a difficult, dry environment. But by the time Henri became interested in it, it had been widely abandoned in favour of modern varieties.

Henri decided to try it out for himself and obtained a few seeds of four of the 13 varieties of Touselle held in the Department of Genetic Resources at INRA in Clermont-Ferrand.

It turns out that “Henri” (for some reason, no surname is provided in the GRAIN article) is Henri Ferté, and what intrigued me particularly about this passage is that he is a farmer who obtained germplasm directly from a genebank, in this case the Conservatoire de Ressources Génétiques, INRA Clermont-Ferrand. ((“[L]’une des premières collections européennes.”)) This doesn’t happen as much as it could, or should. Or at least I don’t know of that many examples. Henri knew about the genebank because he has “un diplôme d’agro en poche,” as Zaharia says in another, more recent, article (which I cannot find online, but is entitled “Gard: La relance des blés méditerranéens.”). How do less academically qualified farmers find out about what’s in genebanks? It would be great to do a review of such direct use of national genebanks, and why there isn’t more of it. Maybe there is one out there already? Not all users are breeders — we sometimes forget that.

Anyway, Henri seems to have been fairly successful in bringing back touselle, King Louis XI’s miraculous wheat. This was apparently still around — in a number of distinct forms — at the end of the 19th century, but later largely disappeared: “…by 2004 Touselle was being grown experimentally on a fairly large number of peasant farms in the south of France.” A Union for the Promotion of Touselle was established in 2005. It doesn’t look to me like their website has been very active in the intervening years, but that’s no doubt because niche wheat farmers in the south of France have better things to do than mess around on the internet.