Ersatz coffee

Many thanks to Eliseu Bettencourt for the following ruminations on making coffee substitutes from seemingly inappropriate plants.

A paper published in volume 54 of GRACE about the utilization of lupin seeds for the preparation of a beverage, brought back some dormant thoughts. ((Andrea Heistinger & Klaus Pistrick. ‘Altreier Kaffee’: Lupinus pilosus L. cultivated as coffee substitute in Northern Italy (Alto Adige/Südtirol). Genetic Resources and Crop Evolution 54:1623-1630. DOI: 10.1007/s10722-007-9265-y.))

The paper describes the utilization of Lupinus pilosus L. as a coffee substitute, in a remote village in the North of Italy sitting at 1200 m above sea level. There are also reports of the cultivation of L. consentinii Guss. in the same area. Interesting to note is the origin of the two species. While L. pilosus has its origin in Southern Europe and the Middle East, L. cosentinii occurs in a very restricted area of Southern Portugal, and a bit on the northern coast of Morocco, and in Sicily. The village, Altrei by name, is located on an old mule and cart track, already important in prehistoric time, that connects Venice via the valley of the river Etsch to the Brenner Pass in the north. Apparently the lupins got up there to Altrei via this connection.

Reading this story kind of woke up some old information I had in my head. In 1981, I was on a collecting mission in the province of Galicia, northwestern Spain, for cultivated and wild lupin species. In a remote village we came to talk to an old man whom we asked if he knew the plant and where could we find it. The man had served during WW1 and his eyes were always red and tearful because he had been attacked with mustard gas in the trenches. He knew the lupins quite well and told us that, during the Spanish Civil War, they had tried to roast the seeds of L. angustifolius L. to use as a coffee substitute, but with very poor results due to its bitterness because of the alkaloids.

My mother also told me that they have tried to make flour out of the rhizome of the Hedychium gadnerianum in the Azores during the WW2, but again with very poor results. The plant, originally from the Himalayas, was introduced in the Azores in the middle of the 19th century as an ornamental, becoming a tremendous invasive species and probably the major threat to the endemic flora. However, they were much more successful with roasted barley, which was ground with the help of a bottle and used as a coffee substitute. What people will go through to get a cappuccino in the morning!

Eat more crap!

It’s a little too preciously written for my taste, but the article at SFGate.com a couple of days back says some sensible things about bugs. Basically, its message is not to be so scared of bacteria on food. They’re agricultural biodiversity too, and can be good for us, essential even. Unfortunately,

the cultural mind-set at large runs directly opposite. So much so that we could be, in effect, cleaning and scrubbing and protecting ourselves to death, as our immune systems whimper and wither and drug-resistant bacteria get nastier and nature always, always finds a way to thwart our silly efforts to eradicate its wild side.

Hence the exhortation in my title, which I’ve nicked from the text of the article. Thanks, Ruthie.

Melaku Worede says Africa must protect plant genetic resources

“I get very worried when new technologies are developed and oriented towards exploiting the African farmers. It’s wrong for big agro-multinationals to force African farmers to use new seed varieties which will disempower them and lead to dependency when local varieties suitable to local conditions can be enhanced.

“I get very concerned when European plant genetic researchers use African farmers as guinea pigs. What they cannot do in Europe they do it here in Africa,” said Dr. Melaku, renowned for his pioneering work in plant genetic research and his role in restoring Ethiopia’s food security and plant resources.

This is from a long interview with Melaku Worede in Black Star News. I wonder how accurate the interview is. Doesn’t sound much like the champion of plant genetic resources of old.

Another agricultural blogger

Rafael Merchan is a native of Cali, Colombia — where I lived for a few years, and very nice it was too. He lives in the US now but seems to travel the world a lot, checking out the local agriculture, and writes interestingly about it in a blog he calls International Agriculture and Development. His latest entry has some cool pictures of agricultural biodiversity in West Africa. I couldn’t find an RSS feed but I’ll be checking in regularly.

Even Europeans care about agricultural biodiversity

Front page news on the International Herald Tribune’s Europe edition this morning, a long article about the biodiversity being preserved, on the very edges of illegality, in the home gardens of Italy. It’s a good survey of some of the human stories that lie behind statistics of genetic erosion and homilies on policies. I particularly liked the writer’s description of Professor Valeria Negri, a leading light in efforts to study personal efforts to preserve crop diversity as “a plant scientist … who takes in orphaned seeds and raises them behind her home, the way a pet lover might take in stray dogs”. ((Declaration of interest: I was involved in the press conference that resulted in the story.))

Coincidentally, or not, there’s a meeting today on the draft European Directive on Conservation Varieties, taking place at the Centro di Cultura e Civiltà Contadina Biblioteca Internazionale “La Vigna”, in Vicenza, near Venice. They’ll be discussing the opportunities and limits to the draft, and among the speakers will be Guy Kastler, who addressed the Governing Body of the “Seed Treaty” last week. Many other participants too, including some stars of Italian efforts to conserve, document and promote the kind of diversity that gardeners and small farmers find most valuable.

I couldn’t be there (and in any case I am deemed to know nothing about policy); if I were, I would be saying what I have always said about this daft directive. We don’t need yet more legislation, which in any case would restrict varieties to confined geographic areas. We need freedom to market whatever varieties and diversity suit people best, as long as quantities of individual packages at all stages do not exceed a low level that could not possibly be of interest to the “buy once use once” mentality of industrial food production.