The birthplace of the Dashehari mango

Our dear friend and colleague Bhuwon Sthapit has prepared this post for us with input from Dr H. Ravishankar, Dr BMC Reddy, Dr S Rajan and farming communities. Thanks, everyone!

‘Dashehari’ is one of the most popular mango varieties of North India, widely acclaimed for its exquisite taste and pleasant aroma. It is also my favorite. Naturally, I was excited to visit the Dashehari Village in Malihabad where the 200 years-old mother tree of the variety, a cultural heritage of the community, still lives.

It is believed that the trees on 80% of the area covered by mango in northern India can be genetically traced back to this very tree. The heritage is exciting, but the risks resulting from massive uniformity of orchards and lack of home gardens to harbour other interesting types of mangoes are terrifying.

Legend has it that a Pathan of Khalispur village of Malihabad Tehsil, transporting choicest mangoes for trade, happened to halt for rest in a hut of a poor Momedian, a monk. The Momedian helped travelers by offering water and shelter and the travelers reciprocated with ripe mangoes.

At the time of departure, the Pathan and the monk had an argument. In a fit of rage, the Pathan shoved one of his choicest ripe mangoes into the soil instead of gifting it to the monk, who however maintained the utmost calm and restraint. In the ensuing rainy season, a mango sapling emerged from the spot, which was duly nurtured to a robust tree by the Momedian. After about twelve years, the tree profusely flowered and yielded fruits of excellent quality.

The news of this unique mango reached the Nawab who owned the land. Being aware of the importance of genetic wealth, he took due care to protect and conserve this exquisite mango variety, which later became the popular ‘Dashehari’ variety of North India.

The tree is still very healthy and impressive, about 10m tall, having a mean canopy spread of 21.0 m and a trunk circumference of about 3.0 m (see picture 1).

The tree has a robust trunk with twelve main scaffolding branches originating and radiating at 1.5 m height almost parallel to the ground.

The tree has spreading canopy architecture with impressive fruiting at the time of the visit, completely overshadowing neighboring trees.

A scientist from the Central Institute of Sub-tropical Horticulture in Lucknow told me that fruits of this Dashehari tree are oblong, elliptical and medium size (13cm long and 8 cm breadth) weighing 130 to 260 g.

It has attractive yellow pulp, firm and non-fibrous, with very sweet taste (researchers told me that it has oBrix score of 21-23 as measure of sweetness in fruits) and pleasant aroma. CISH collected scion material of the tree for clonal propagation in 1977 and thereafter elite clones spread to northern Indian farmers from a network of private and government nurseries.

This cultural heritage tree belonged to the great-grandfather (Mr Ishtida Hussain) of farmer Mr Shamir Zaidi, now 30 years old, who has named his house in honour of the variety — Dashehari Kothi. Mr Kamil Khan, an 87 years old but rather progressive orchardist of the small hamlet of Kakori (close to Dusseheri village) of Malihabad Tehsil shared local legends with the visitors. He told us that the tree, under natural care, is free from stemborer and termites attacks, both common problems of mangoes. It is also free from Loranthus infestation. This tree has yielded on an average 80-190 kg in the last eight years, with a moderate biennial bearing habit.

In September 2009 the area was registered with Geographical Indication No 125 in the name of “Mango Malihabad Dusseheri” by India’s Geographical Indication Registry. The communities around the mother tree have also been selected for the UNEP/GEF Project “Conservation and sustainable use of wild and cultivated fruit tree diversity: Prompting sustainable livelihoods, food security and ecosystems services” in Malihabad, Lucknow. Communties such as Sarsanda, Kasmandi Kalam and Mohammad Nagar Talukedari have 7-29 cultivated varieties each.

They are also blessed by rich diversity in seedling mango trees, with an estimated population of 3000 to 5000 mango seedling trees. Almost all current commercial mango varieties in India are selected from the seedling population. Potentially research can identify many more consumer- and farmer- preferred diversity of mangoes and innovative farmers can work together with researchers and nurserymen to identify, select and popularize the elite materials from existing farmer’s orchards. The project aims to empower farming communities and local institutions to identify unique varieties from the orchards and scale up genetic resources and associated traditional knowledge for sharing wider benefits to farmers and consumers.

Almost all orchards in Malihabad are dominated by Dashehari (80%), with over 10-20 varieties of other cultivated types, but few trees of each. Around the orchards farmer maintain many seedling types and all of these trees produce diverse fruits with diverse shape, size, color and taste. There is thus scope to increase diversity in the market by sharing information with consumers in urban areas to stimulate demand for other varieties there, and thus minimize the risks posed by uniformity while also providing livelihood security for mango growers.

Nibbles: Rice, Tamil Nadu genebank, Seed Day, Olives, Nordic Cattle, Marmite, Musa, Butterflies, Congo

Nibbles: Heirloom store, Leaf miners, Mongolian drought, GPS, Coca, Ag origins, Aquaculture, Lice, Bud break in US, IFAD livestock, biofuels, Pig history

Nibbles: Quasi conservation, Prioritization, Nabhan, Wild sunflower in Argentina, Pests and diseases, Ethiopian honey, African beer, Ash, Camel milk, Livestock conference, Bull breeding, Goldman Environmental Prize, Anastasia

  • Another nail in the coffin of Cartesian dualism in conservation? Yeah, right. Oooooh, here’s another. What next? Conservation-vs-use to bite the dust?
  • Now here’s a thing. Priority setting in conservation for plants in Turkey and sheep in Ethiopia. Compare and contrast.
  • “Bad-ass eco warrior” quoted on … apples.
  • Invasive species can be good … when they are sunflower wild relatives.
  • Pests and diseases: “New solutions could include novel resistant cultivars with multiple resistance genes, suitable epigenetic imprints and improved defence responses that are induced by attack.” I’ll get right on that. And more from Food Security.
  • Rare Ethiopian honey becoming rarer.
  • Also rare are micro-breweries in Africa. Alas.
  • Volcano bad for British diet. And Kenyan jobs.
  • So let them drink camel milk!
  • Conference on Sustainable Animal Production in the Tropics. Doesn’t sound like much fun? It’s in Guadeloupe!
  • And, there will probably be photographs of bulls of “stunning scrotal circumference.” Convinced yet?
  • Rios won for his work promoting a return to more traditional farming techniques focusing on seed diversity, crop rotation and the use of organic pest control and fertilizers to both increase crops and improve the communist-led island’s environment.”
  • Our friend Anastasia does Seed Magazine: “Until broader efforts to reduce poverty can take hold, crops with improved nutrients could be very important in reducing death and disease caused by nutrient deficiencies.”

The recent history of sustainable agriculture in Thailand deconstructed

We are happy to publish this contribution from our reader Donald R. Strong of the Department of Evolution and Ecology, University of California, Davis.

ResearchBlogging.orgThailand is a cornucopia of agricultural biodiversity. Western visitors like me are astounded by the numbers of kinds, and sheer volume, of fruits and vegetables offered from the densely packed food carts that line city streets. Piles of Asian species — longan, durian, mangosteen, lychee, longkong, salak — as well as unusual melons and herbs, are jumbled together with more familiar food plants — bananas, corn, chilis, onions, citrus, etc. Unlike in many other wet, tropical countries with impressive displays of food in central markets, Thais are generally well fed. Malnutrition and infant mortality are substantially lower than in contiguous countries, and in the region only China rivals Thailand in measures of population well being. 1 Thailand has not sacrificed wealth by feeding its people. Food exports have long been high and lucrative, and it is the world’s leading exporter of rice.

The social policies responsible for these positive agricultural outcomes have evolved, sometimes tortuously, over a long period. Thailand had became a major exporter of rice for the global market by the second half of the 19th century, but the wealth from this trade did not trickle down. 2 Thanks to the Green Revolution, by the late 20th century Thailand had become a model of development. It had progressed from subsistence agriculture, to agribusiness, and then to an industrializing economy. At the same time, low incomes dogged large fractions of the rural population, which provided the labor for agribusiness and practiced small-scale agriculture.

The evolution of social and economic conditions for small farmers following the Green Revolution, and the subsequent movement toward sustainable agriculture, is the subject of a fascinating recent study by Yuichiro Amekawa of Iowa State University. 3 Manned by surplus labor in rural regions, and trained by agricultural extension funded by the World Bank, industrial agriculture employed new varieties, inorganic fertilizers, and machinery. Great increases in yields followed. Skillful marketing of the bounty by agribusiness boosted Thailand’s capital. GNP increased to drive industrialization.

While the Green Revolution was promulgated throughout Thailand, however, only in the irrigated central part of the country did rice yields rise a great deal. In many areas that rely upon rainfed cultivation, impoverishment persisted for small farmers, and market prices did not rise to match costs of the technology. Small farmers on marginal lands faced drought, soil salinization, pest resurgence, poisoning due to ignorance of proper handling of pesticides, and many were overwhelmed by debt. In upland areas of northern and northeastern regions of the country, indigenous people were displaced by the deforestation that came with the push for cash crops other than rice. Bereft of land, these people became the pool of dependent labor. Government reforestation efforts displaced poor farmers who then moved into the remaining forest seeking places to farm. 4

The thrust of Amekawa’s work concerns the outcome of the sustainable agriculture movement in Thailand meant to counter the economic insecurity, pollution from inorganic fertilizers and pesticides, harm to the environment, and erosion of biodiversity caused by industrial agriculture brought by the Green Revolution. He addresses governance, following the approach of the 2009 Nobel Prize in economics to Eleanor Elinor Ostrom, one of the two co-awardees. She and others have focused upon what might be termed bottom-up, self-management by local communities. The examples of successful management of such “common property regimes” contradict the original assertion of Hardin’s Tragedy of the Commons that the only means of avoiding over-exploitation and the tragedy of the commons is top-down control by private ownership of the property or by government .

Amekawa learned Thai and based his study upon data that he collected over a ten year period before 2009, which was an advance upon previous purely theoretical analyses of the prospects for smallholder sustainable agriculture in Thailand. His study was in Chaiyaphum Province, in the northeastern region, locally called Isan and considered the least developed of Thailand’s four regions. It has low agricultural productivity, drought, soils that have become saline, and farmers with low incomes. They grow a range of fruits and vegetables as well as sugar cane, taro, cassava, pummelo citrus, and corn. He concentrates on the case of the “SAO: Industrial Organic Agriculture,” which was promoted by a Japanese NGO with efforts at democratic local governance in 13 villages.

They raised diverse vegetables in small gardens, with manure, organic pest management, and crop rotation — and received guaranteed high prices from subscribing Japanese households in Bangkok. The operation collapsed after a few years under a burden of oversupply driven by “increasingly opportunistic entry of producers.” Control of supply is a crucial element of common property theory and practice, and its absence from SAO operation contributed to the tragedy of the collapse of the SAO operation.

This was not an orthodox tragedy of the commons, however. Overexploitation in this case was of the limited market rather than a natural resource. Subsequent rescue schemes by the government and private parties were not successful.

The failure of SAO not withstanding, Amekawa concludes that sustainable agriculture as it exists in the complicated government polices and procedures — which do contain some elements of local, shared governance — are indeed valuable to small-scale farmers. However, consistent with the SAO story, the domestic markets for many Thai crops, especially those for fresh fruits and vegetables, are saturated. He finds no wisdom in “encouraging less competitive groups to newly enter the markets…” Amekawa is making an important statement about the complex relationship between agricultural biodiversity, sustainability, and economic sociology.