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A champion rice going for a song in China

A few days back Jeremy shared with me a blog post he had come across that made reference to a documentary that in turn featured an old scroll from China’s Song Dynasty:

The documentary had a nice section about a scroll produced in this period, showing the scrum of life along a river during a festival. It is apparently one of the most famous images in all of Chinese history, so, I feel chastened never to have heard of it previously.

The scroll is online, with annotations along the way to help you understand what’s going on. They’re all pretty interesting, but the very last one is particularly relevant to us here. It’s associated with a farmhouse in some paddy fields.

Here’s what is says.

New Varieties of Rice

A farm house on the outskirts of the city. “In the early part of the Song dynasty … a new variety of early-ripening rice was introduced into China from Champa, a kingdom then located near the Mekong River Delta in what is now Vietnam, and by 1012 it had been introduced in the lower Yangzi and Huai river regions. … Because the variety of rice was relatively more drought-resistant, it could be grown in places where older varieties had failed, especially on higher land and on terraces that climb hilly slopes, and it ripened even faster than the other early-ripening varieties already grown in China. This made double-cropping possible in some areas, and in some places, even triple-cropping became possible … the hardiness and productivity of various varieties of rice were and are in large part responsible for the density of population in South, Southeast, and East Asia. According to the Buddhist monk, Shu Wenying, the Song Emperor Zhengzhong (998-1022), when he learned that Champa rice was drought-resistant, sent special envoys to bring samples back to China.”

Lynda Noreen Shaffer, in “A Concrete Panoply of Intercultural Exchange: Asia in World History,” in Asia in Western and World History, edited by Ainslie T. Embree and Carol Gluck (Armonk, N.Y.: M.E. Sharpe, 1997), 839-840.

If you’re interested in Champa rice, there’s a whole paper about it.

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Turkey Red from Ukraine feeds America, and the world

As we ponder the possible effects of war on food security, a piece in Modern Farmer reminds us that Ukraine contributes to the world’s wheat crop more than just its annual harvest.

“If you’ve ever eaten a slice of bread, you can thank Ukraine. That’s not an exaggeration. The flavorful grains that transformed the North American prairies during the nineteenth century into a continental breadbasket were varieties native to Ukraine’s famed Black Earth districts of Crimea and Galicia [what is now southeastern Poland and western Ukraine].”

It has to do with the “Turkish type” hard red winter wheats that German Mennonite farmers, originally invited into the Russian empire by Catherine the Great, took with them to the US from the Crimea when things got tricky for them in the late 1800s.

Dr Tom Payne, formerly the head of the wheat genebank at CIMMYT, tells me that such varieties as Kharkov, Kherson and Kubanka were the foundation for Great Plains modern wheats, with Kharkov being the “check” against which new varieties have been compared for more than 50 years.

A few years ago, Jeremy told the story of Red Fife on his podcast. A foundational variety for Canadian wheat farming, that too can perhaps trace its ultimate origin to Ukraine.

One legend states that a load of wheat grown in Ukraine was on a ship in the Glasgow harbour. A friend of Farmer Fife dropped his hat into the red-coloured wheat, collecting a few seeds in the hatband, which he then shipped off to Farmer Fife. The wheat grew. The family cow managed to eat all the wheat heads except for one, which Mrs Fife salvaged. This was the beginning of Red Fife wheat in Canada.

Lately, some American and Canadian farmers, millers and bakers have been going back to older heritage varieties such as Turkey Red and Red Fife; and now, alas, these are making their way back home, though sadly not as one would have wished:

Janie’s Mill, which grinds grains from Janie’s Farm in central Illinois, sent customers a note about being the “direct beneficiaries of countless generations of Ukrainian wheat farmers.” In service of that direct connection, the mill is sending profits from sales of Turkey Red grains and flour to World Central Kitchen, which has been providing hot meals in the region to feed the more than two million refugees that have fled Ukraine since the attack began in February.

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Brainfood: Kungas, Tomato domestication, Wild honeybees, Association mapping, Mixtures, Wild edible plants, DSI ABS, Fusarium wilt, Mango weeds, Conservation payments

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Bright future for Future Seeds

For the past few years, the Alliance of Bioversity and CIAT has been building a beautiful, spacious, up-to-date, energy-efficient building to house its genebank on its research station at Palmira, Colombia. The old building was just no longer fit for purpose. Future Seeds will be inaugurated next week, on 15 March, and it’s already been getting some attention in the press, which I’m sure will ramp up over the next days. Watch out for more on the Alliance’s social media. One of the fun things the genebank is involved with, and which will no doubt be highlighted during the celebrations, is a collaboration with X’s Project Mineral on the robotic characterization of bean varieties in the field. Congratulations to all at Future Seeds, and very best wishes for the, well, future.

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The three S’s of medieval salads

There’s a thread on the Twitter feed of The Delicious Legacy Podcast about that holy trinity of somewhat weird medieval root vegetables: skirret, salsify and scorzonera.

If you don’t like the bird site, check it out on ThreadReader.

I’m not sure I agree with everything in there. For example, potato and sweetpotato can absolutely have complex flavours, and I doubt any of these three admittedly now marginal roots could ever have been described as staples. But it’s nice to be reminded of crops which are going out of fashion, and could presumably come back into it, given a little push.