Jim Godfrey on the Potato

The challenges for potato production in the Developing World.

It is a delight to talk to people who are interested in food. My customers are only interested that they get delivery on time, the specification that they require, on time, and at the right price.

One billion people eat potatoes every day. They are good to eat and nutritious.

Chuno and tunta are “the original processed food that can be stored”. Freeze dried, and tunta is from very high Andes, from bitter potatoes, high in glycoalkaloids. After being freeze dried they are washed in streams to remove the glycoalkaloids and make them safe to eat. “However that was discovered, I do not know.”

History of the potato. Same old same old. Three million Irish lived on the produce of 1 acre or less ((What can this mean?)) of largely one variety, Lumper.

Major shift in past years, such that more potatoes are now being grown in the developing world than in the industrial world, especially in sub Saharan Africa.

Belarus has the highest consumption in the world.

32 food deficit, low income countries that are hit very hard when supplies are tight, which they are now.

Potato has greatest potential to increase supply, 4.5% versus other major food crops growing at 1.5% per year.

Talks a bit about CIP and the rest of the CGIAR centres. Erk! His map is out of date, showing IPGRI in Rome. And there’s a photo of a smiling Jim Godfrey taking true potato seed into the Global Crop Diversity Trust’s vault in Svalbard.

Explains how CIP maps poverty, agriculture and policy and looks for intersections to decide where to work. Environmental vulnerability and the threats of climate change will affect tropical areas most. Shows reduction of growing season (for potatoes) in Africa, which will also be repeated elsewhere. Need to study mitigation, adaptation and assessment to feed that into policy changes to approach climate change.

Interesting map that shows “physical water scarcity” and “economic water scarcity” separately. What can this mean?

Cost benefit analysis of programmes shows that work on virus-free sweet potato material in one province in China alone has “paid for the whole of the investment in CIP over the past thirty years”.

On biodiversity, talks about reduction of genetic diversity from 1900 to 1970 in wheat, but that CIMMYT has worked specifically to increase that diversity. “Just as well,” because of Ug99, which, he says, could have been disastrous if it had happened in the 1970s.

On to crop genebanks, “a precious resource for future food security”. Not as simple as just shifting varieties about to respond to climate change, because need to adapt to different daylengths etc etc.

Late blight, and the arrival of A2 mating strain. Arrived in 1976, as a result of the drought in Europe, which forced down barriers and allowed in potatoes from Mexico. Salutary lesson about unforeseen consequences of food shortages. Now another strain, blue13 is rampant in Europe.

Native diversity in Peru. Each family keeps roughly 8 varieties, a whole community keeps about 122.

Solanum phureja has a very high iron variety, and other varieties that are very rich in vitamin C.

“Eating is an agricultural act. What we eat defines how we take care of our land.” Wendell Berry.

A slide of diverse local potato chips draws loud ooohs of admiration.

On orange-fleshed sweet potatoes, introduced in Africa, where vitamin A deficiency is a big problem: “We’ve seen a reduction in blindness, a reduction in under-five mortality, a reduction in maternal mortality, and a prolongation of the lives of AIDS sufferers.”

No time for questions.

Vegetable Culture: Fuchsia Dunlop

Deconstructing the Chinese meal, but I’m not picking up the Chinese words. May have to get her book. Fang and Tang? Rice and the stuff used to send the rice home? School meals consist of rice and 7 or 8 vegetables at poor schools and 14 or 15 at posh private schools. Rich tastes from vegetables partially sun dried, rubbed with salt and fermented. Running through the range of things that “the average Chinese peasant” knows about. Soybeans, not good to eat but processed into a huge range of rich-tasting foods full of umami taste; flavour without meat. Whole categories not available in the west, such as water vegetables.

There is no sweet savoury divide in Chinese cuisine.

In ancient Chinese, a word for the rich was meat-eater.

There is a stigma attached to wild vegetables, partly recent because of the great famine of the 1960s. Tension. Posh urbanites go to pseudo-restaurants to eat those peasant foods. Visiting one such place, she asked whether the people ate like this all the time. Oh yes, replied the cook. No you don’t, said her host, you told me that you consider this pig food, but you’re too polite to tell Fuchsia that you consider it pig food..

Modern Buddhist restaurants serve very elaborate fake meat and fish made of vegetables.

Vegetable Culture: Elisabeth Luard

Briefed to talk about the Columbian Exchange. But first, how do we choose vegetables.

1 What you can get. “In this climate, we grow grass, so we eat meat.”

2 Differentiating yourself from others. We used to eat quite a range of green things that we no longer eat, but that our anteriors would have known as they walked the lanes or gathered as they worked the fields.

3 Vegetarianism as an intellectual choice. You always find veg restaurants and wholefood shops in university cities. Falls into the need to feed the world, against the tide of those who want to eat meat. And meat-eaters win in battle. Ghandi, a vegetarian, knew that passive resistance was pretty much all you could do.

She grew up in South America so it “was sort of in my blood” understanding the vegetables that were there. In 1992, Expo Sevillia reconstructed the four little ships that went to the New World. She reads out the bill of lading.

Maize replaced chestnut woods back in Europe. The usual guff on the potato, being an acre of land and two weeks labour to feed a (large) household. “It was a pushover.”

Manioc, cassava, yam grow where neither maize nor potatoes will grow.

“Nebuchadnezzer ate grass. Is this an early reference to vegetarianism? No. It is a sign of madness.”

Vegetable Culture: Raymond Sokolov

Ooops. I hadn’t fully checked my programme. Before the estimable Jim Godfrey there’s a panel discussion on Vegetable Culture, which I suspect will allow for a diversity of views.

The reason is that the planned speaker, Simon Schama, is unable to be here. Grave disappointment.

Ceremonials over — winner of the Sophie Coe prize sounds like a fascinating paper on the poppy in Anatolia, which I’ll try to obtain — the panelists are taking the stage. Paul Levy, Raymond Sokolov, Fuchsia Dunlop and Elisabeth Luard.

Ray Sokolov is restaurant critic for the Wall Street Journal. He sees not the depreciation of vegetables, but a tension in the west in which vegetables are a superior product, in addition to being the low-down food of the poor. He then goes through a series of quotations from classical sources. We’re on Jacob and Esau and the mess of potage; not very complex, but also a harbinger of the future, with famished Esau, the hunter, willing to sell out his future for something to eat. Hunting and gathering succumbs to agriculture and the settled life.

Homer, in The Iliad 13, “588 or so” talks about an arrow bouncing off the shield of noble Menelaus, “as when on a threshing floor black beans or chickpeas bounce off the winnowing fan”. War contrasted with peaceful harvest.

Virgil wrote a poem that is basically a recipe for salad.

Now we’re on Shakespeare, contrasting Falstaff as the gross meat-eating prole — “capons by the ton” — contrasted with Llewellyn promoting the virtues of the leek. “Will you not eat my leek,” he asks, which could be misconstrued.

Virginia Woolf “is completely anti-vegetable in a way, but not really”. Followed by a quote about the poorness of English cooking from To The Lighthouse.

Live blogging OSFC

This is going to be an experiment. I’m not sure how it will go. But as I am in Oxford for the Oxford Symposium on Food and Cookery, and as the topic is vegetables, we thought it might be an entertaining wheeze to see if I can live blog it. I can foresee two problems.

One, sitting here typing will disturb people. That could easily make me stop. Two, I’ll run out of juice. Despite the wonderful facilities, there doesn’t seem to be an outlet anywhere nearby. And three (did I say two?) in addition to plenary sessions, there are parallel sessions and it might be awkward rushing from one to another.

But I’ll give it a go. So here I am, waiting in the plenary hall for Jim Godfrey, chairman of the board of CIP, the International Potato Centre, to do his spuddy thing.